![]() ![]() But I have studied the science as well as my math-challenged brain allows, and like any good, attentive monkey, I can mimic things I see. I give it a couple of coats of shellac for appearance sake.ĭisclaimer: I am not a speaker scientist, and I don't claim to really understand why most of this works. I radius all the internal edges and keep it smooth to avoid "turbulence". Tie in a brace for the short, opposite panels and you are golden, open or sealed, ready for uncolored (by the box) sound at any volume level. The shelf brace in the pine 2 x 12 a few posts up works fine. It doesn't have to attach to the back panel but it should be at least 2-3" wide, mounted on edge, to strengthen that thin part of the baffle. Put a brace over the thin web between the two drivers. Mount the drivers a few inches off center, but exactly vertically aligned. Angle the baffle back 10-15 degrees if you are sold on using it vertically. Outside dimensions that work for me are 22-23" wide, 11 1/2-12" deep, minimum height for a 2 x 12 is 32", for a 2 x 10 is about 27-28". Have your buddy cut three baffles (2x12, 2x10, and 1x15!) and three back panels (sealed, an oval hole, and if you are adventurous, another with ports tuned to about 80 Hz for use as a bass reflex design) if you want maximum versatility. ![]() This leaves plenty of clearance for front-mounted drivers at full volume. skeletonized grille frame attached to the baffle with t-nuts. I set the baffle back one inch, then I use an 18 mm. If you seal this box, it will have a good internal volume for most guitar speakers to perform well. Minimum external height would be about (top and bottom panels = 1.5", drivers measure about 12.5 x 2 = 25", another 2.5" + 1" + 1.5" = 5" between the drivers and the panels) 31.5". As wide and deep as the amp chassis, and tall enough to fit the chosen driver! They worked great because we love the sound of an open back cabinet, and the dims on an open back are not critical at all. Leo Fender's combo cabinets were not "designed", they were "measured". Wide enough to accommodate the widest head you will be putting on top of it, within reason. Unless you want to build it for use as a bass reflex (most guitarists have no need to do this), the dimensions are not critical. Your buddy will be able to cut out a beautiful box in an hour or two, so you are not going to be asking too big a favor (?). It is not much more work to get a nice flush fronted mounted driver if your buddy has a circle jig, which he probably does.ĭrivers are easier to swap out when you mount them this way, you get a little extra internal volume (for sealed designs), and you can use it without the (separate) grill to get the max audiophile effect! Holy cow!!! Don't get too haunted by the mids!!! This is largely driver-dependent but it can be really noticeable in some cases. This works better with some grill cloth than others.įront mounted speakers might provide a noticeable boost in high end and dispersion. That requires a separate grille assembly, which adds weight, but air leaks really screw up performance of sealed designs, so be aware of the compromises.Īnother solution is to only wrap the grille cloth around the narrow edge of the baffle, securing it with staples, and use the clean back and a gasket to get a fine, airtight seal. If you're using a sealed design, most guys use a dedicated seal (like foam weather stripping) as a gasket. It can be too stiff and it won't lay down flat and even to get an airtight seal without warping the baffle! Guys sometimes have trouble using the grille cloth to seal that front seam around the baffle. ![]() The bolts can attach from the front or back, but the joint has to be absolutely rigid and airtight, especially for sealed designs. Of course, you already knew that, judging from your choice of BB for the baffle and pine for the other panels! The baffle gets hammered with the most energy so it has to mount rock solid. Cleats and plenty of t-nuts and strong bolts. ![]()
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